Lycium barbarum ethanol extraction: Application as cosmetic product ingredients

作者：Shang, Ya-Fang; Hao, Wen-Di; Ni, Zhi-Jing; Thakur, Kiran; Zhang, Jian-Guo; Khan, Mohammad Rizwan; Wei, Zhao-Jun^*

来源：INDUSTRIAL CROPS AND PRODUCTS, 2023, 202: 117130.

DOI：10.1016/j.indcrop.2023.117130

• Lycium barbarum
• Cosmetic
• In vitro antioxidant activities
• Stability
• Anti -aging

Plant seed oils and extracts are widely used in cosmetic industry to provide the skin with a variety of benefits. Due to the paucity of bioactivity studies on Lycium barbarum and its skin care applications, Lycium barbarum seed oil (LBSO) was utilized to create stable oil-in-water emulsions, and Lycium barbarum fruit extract (LBE) was used as a functional ingredient in cosmetic formulations We optimized the biological activity, storage stability, and physicochemical properties of LBSO when added to O/W emulsions (antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti -aging). The LBE emulsion [15 % L. barbarum seed oil (F3) and 1 % LBE] showed the highest physical and storage stability (pH 6.02). TPC and TFC had respective values of 2.146 & PLUSMN; 0.013 mg Gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/g and 1.099 & PLUSMN; 0.012 mg Rutin equivalent (RE)/g. For anti-aging purposes, LBE emulsion could inhibit hyaluronidase (44.74 & PLUSMN; 2.05 %), elastase protease (26.59 & PLUSMN; 2.56 %), and melanogenesis (34.35 & PLUSMN; 1.77 %). Overall, our current findings speculate the development of anti-aging cosmetic products using L. barbarum.